White Pines

White Pines

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Malans Peak - 9-09-2011

This was not fun. It was supposed to be a piece of cake taking only a few hours maximum to head up Waterfall Canyon, through Malans Basin, over Malans Peak, and then out through Taylor Canyon. Getting lost can ruin a hike.

I started out at the 29th Street trailhead. I quickly moved south and then east up Waterfall Canyon. The water was still flowing pretty well down this canyon; surprisingly quick for September and I hoped there would be water at the falls. It has been a couple of years since I went up this trail and I apparently had forgotten that it is somewhat steep. That said, I did make good time and I did not pause until I hit the first bridge at the mouth of the canyon.

From this point, it gets quite rocky for portions of the trail. There is no real scrambling, but you do need to watch your step as my father-in-law experienced a fall here a few years ago.




 

It only took about 35 minutes to make it to the falls. I was in luck as there was still some water spilling over although this is probably best seen in the late spring or early summer when the snowpack runoff is at its peak. Nonetheless, it is still beautiful.

Below the falls on the north side of the stream, there sits a sad tribute to a 17 year-old young man who died here in 2010 when he fell while rock climbing. My heart goes out to the family of Christopher Kirvan.






I had to convince myself that I could scramble/rock climb to the area above the falls. I have heard that a number of people do this so I figured I had to give it a shot. It turns out that I was making too much out of it and it was actually pretty fun. Climbing on the larger rocks was exciting but scrambling on the smaller, loose rocks was somewhat of a hassle.


Just as I started this climb, a hawk cried out to me. I thought perhaps it was a warning not to scramble up the rocks but I convinced myself this was silly. The hawk circled once and quickly flew out of the area above the falls.







It was from here that things went south. It was hard to figure out where to climb to so I took a route that would put me above the falls. It seemed that this is where most people would have gone, but I was somewhat shocked when I climbed to this steep ridge expecting to find a trail and instead it was just a steep dropoff into Malans Basin. Great.

I was not about to climb back down the rocks that I had come up for fear that I would loose my footing. Instead, I planned to head east and then north following the contour line inside Malans Basin. My maps did not show a trail where I was, so I kind of expected this at the top of the scramble but it was some pretty rough terrain. I had to climb over a giant boulder that was probably 15 feet tall. The difficult part was getting down the other side where I had to hang by my fingers and then drop about six feet. Nothing like slowly sliding a 195 pound body down a rock and hanging by your fingers to teach you some humility.

You might notice there are fewer pictures than I usually post. This is due to not only being lost but also because we had some family issues occur while I was out "enjoying nature". The most immediate issue was that Keagan had fallen at school on some playground equipment and he had to get stitches.

Searching for the trail, I came across a deer trail and followed. Follow these long enough and guess what you find - deer. One was really close but two others were quite a ways away when they took off in the opposite direction. If you look closely at the photo below you can see the deer in the center looking at the camera. She is somewhat hard to see as she blends in with the trees.


From this point I moved mostly north in search of a creek in Malans Basin where my maps were showing a trail that should run up Malans to Mount Ogden. The brush was thick and I had a hard time seeing my feet through all of the vegetation. Not a good feeling considering my fear of snakes, not to mention I didn't want to roll an ankle where I was.

I finally found the stream in the basin and imagine that, I could not find the trail that was supposed to be found just to the north of it. I snaked back and forth across the stream looking for a trail on either side, sometimes having luck in finding what at times looked like a primitive trail. This trail would constantly disappear and I was either backtracking or pushing through the brush, my legs getting pretty scratched up the entire way.

About one mile south and east of Malans Peak I came upon the trail at an elevation of about 7,100 feet. I was ecstatic until I started a gentle climb again. I thought I was going to follow the trail down the canyon back to the trailhead until I checked my map and realized I had yet to hit Malans Peak and then circle around Taylor Canyon before heading back down. Considering that my boy was getting stitches and my wife and I were supposed to celebrate our anniversary with dinner at Rooster's, I was frustrated at how late it was getting.

I tried to run a portion of the trail, but my knees cannot take the beating of running down steep slopes. I would run or double-time up and on flat surfaces, but that only lasted until Malans Peak and then it was all downhill from there. It's too bad that I was pressed for time because I did not get to enjoy the view from Malans Peak.

Taylor Canyon was very pretty. It is a smaller canyon with fairly steep walls. Trees provide plenty of beautiful shade but again, the trail is fairly steep. I followed a dry creek bed as the trail switched back to the west. About halfway down the canyon at an elevation of 5,300 feet there is another stream that flows from the south and merges with the aforementioned dry creek.


From this point it was only about a one mile hike back to the trailhead. My wife and I met at the restaurant for our anniversary dinner. She looked beautiful and I looked like a transient who had just hopped off the train by Union Station. I can't imagine that I will be heading up that trail next week. But maybe in a couple of years.

Here is a map for this hike:

View Malans Peak - 2011-09-09 in a larger map

Here is a slideshow/link to the photo album of this hike:

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Deseret Peak - 08-29-2011

First things first - the spelling of this peak is correct for anyone reading this outside of the state. Apparently the word is taken from the Book of Mormon and is a reference to the honeybee.


This one a steep climb. By far, it was the steepest climb I've encountered this year and I would assume it's the steepest I have ever climbed. The trailhead sits at 7,443 feet and I climbed to 11,031 feet according to the topo maps. This nearly 3,600 foot climb is completed in about 4 miles.



The trail itself was fantastic. It wasn't too wide but is also wasn't overgrown like the trail I took up the Wellsville mountains just two days prior to this hike. There had been some rain showers in the area overnight which only softened the trail. Place some welcomed beds of pine needles on top of the soft dirt and it makes for a comfortable trail. I honestly hope that walking in heaven will be a soft dirt trail with half an inch of pine needles on the surface.

This is not to suggest that the trail was without it negatives. I think I ran across some poison ivy but I still am not sure. It looked just like the stuff I saw on the Wellsville hike and that stuff was everywhere, so I have my doubts. If anyone can tell me whether or not this is in fact poison ivy, I would really appreciate it.


Perhaps the biggest pain in the leg was what I believe is a type of Indian thistle. These have somewhat pretty but needle shaped purple blooms with very sharp thistles below. These continued to pierce my pants and stab at my legs when I took my eyes off of the trail.

There was a ton of shade on this hike, at least until I approached the first basin. From this point, I continued in and out of the trees numerous times. I believe I was in the shade about one-third to one-half of the time. At the outset, this wasn't as welcomed as it was in the early afternoon. When I began the hike it was rather cool and I had to wear a long-sleeved shirt.













It was amazing how much higher I seemed to get in what felt like only a short distance of hiking. Each time I would turn around the cities behind rapidly got smaller and smaller.


Around 3.3 miles into the hike, I finally made it to the saddle at just over 10,000 feet. If someone were to hike to this point rather than continuing on to the peak, it will still be worth the hike. The view is magnificent. There is a small plateau and the trail splits here. From this point, you can see so many mountain peaks it is just beautiful.




The trail appeared to flatten out for a time but it was apparently a cruel illusion. I soon found myself huffing and puffing. It may have been fatigue setting in, but I am going to blame my weariness on the thinner air above 10,000 feet.

What kept my mind alert, however, was the explosions I heard around this point. At first I thought the Air Force may have been dropping bombs during training missions but I never saw a single jet. The explosions continued, however. As I came over a ridge toward the peak, I could see huge clouds of smoke. What amazed me was how long it took for the sound to travel to me after witnessing the explosion. It was truly a sight to see. If you check out the photo below, there is a plume of smoke just right of center and the smoke is being blown to the left towards Salt Lake.


The view from up here was amazing. As per usual, the photos do not do it justice. These photos in particular disappointed me in that you don't get the perspective of just how high up there this really is. At least if you look at the photo below, you can see the canyon I hiked up to get to the peak.



This was the most gratifying hike I have ever done. Lake Blanche is beautiful. White Pines is ideal. But the view coupled with the sense of accomplishment made this the highlight of the year and perhaps one of the most fulfilling moments of my life. I only wish my family could have been with me.

With little time spent at the peak, I hobbled my way back down the trail. The only wildlife that I encountered were a couple of does and a very friendly Border Collie. Outside of meeting a few very friendly hikers along the way, this was the only excitement I encountered on the rapid descent back to the trailhead.



Map for the hike:

View Deseret Peak - 2011-08-29 in a larger map


Stats for the hike:
Created by My Tracks on Android.

Total Distance: 14.62 km (9.1 mi)
Total Time: 4:31:01
Moving Time: 2:48:07
Average Speed: 3.24 km/h (2.0 mi/h)
Average Moving Speed: 5.22 km/h (3.2 mi/h)
Max Speed: 14.76 km/h (9.2 mi/h)
Min Elevation: 2234 m (7329 ft)
Max Elevation: 3345 m (10973 ft)
Elevation Gain: 1342 m (4401 ft)
Max Grade: 0 %
Min Grade: -8 %
Recorded: Mon Aug 29 09:11:28 MDT 2011
Activity type: hiking



Photos for the hike:
Deseret Peak - 08-29-11

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Wellsville Mountains - 08-27-2011

I should have worn pants. Really. I really should have worn pants.

This was the thought that dominated all others on this hike. A rational person would use previous experiences to help guide them in their future decisions but not me. Perhaps it is the German ancestry in my blood that makes me so stubborn. I blame my parents.

Regardless of my genealogy, I really should have worn pants.

Needless to say, there were a lot of tall grasses and wildflowers covering the trail. Not right from trailhead, mind you. No, the trail wants to suck you in, distract you, and then attack your legs and make you regret having trod upon its surface.

This was a steep climb from the onset. It was enough to make me wonder why I go on hikes. But after a few hundred yards I got my wind and was able to start looking around and taking in the scenery. Under a canopy of trees, there was plenty of shade and ivy covering the ground and tree trunks. It was something I have not seen in other adventures.



I soon came out of the cover of the shade and even though it was still early, I was already cursing Apollo. The heat and the steep grade made for slow going.




At lower elevations, I was meandering in and out of the trees. It wouldn't be a real hike unless I came across a snake. Once again I was fortunate that the one I ran across about one mile into the hike was not venomous, but it was creepy looking just the same. At first it appeared to be the largest earthworm I had ever seen but then I thought it was some prehistoric slug. Closer inspection proved it to be another snake. Finally getting over my fear around these hideous creatures, I attempted to escort my footless friend off the trail, but he was not compliant. Let's just say I made it down the trail and leave it at that.


There are very few switchbacks on this trail and it made for a steep climb. I climbed just shy of 3,000 feet in elevation over 3.5 miles. The climb seemed worse as the wildflowers seemed to grab hold of my legs in an attempt to stop my progress. But I would not be deterred. The constant buzzing of all of the bees collecting pollen were enough to prevent me from resting too long in one spot. I have doubts about the declining bee population after being up here as they were everywhere. I can't believe I did not get stung especially when one flew up under my sunglasses. How ridiculous I must have looked as I swatted at the air in front me while the bee was safe and sound under my lens.

A new concern seeped into my brain. If a bee could make it under the lens of my sunglasses, what's to stop one from going up my shorts? On top of that, how would I look if another hiker approached as I was removing the stinger? Try to explain that one!


The climb continued and the wildflowers seemed to only get thicker and taller. At times they were chest high and I had to push through the growth with my forearms in spots. By the time I reached the ridgeline, I had a very uncomfortable rash starting on my forearms and my legs. At times, I saw what looked like poison ivy but to me, everything has leaves of three with serrated edges. It was unavoidable at points, so I trudged onward. I really should have worn pants.


At about two or two and a half miles in, the climb brought about a yearning for the flat lands of Iowa. Well perhaps yearning is a strong word but it definitely produced a deep appreciation for my homeland. The climb did not cease.

I eventually reached the ridge and decided to turn back to the northwest. I climbed a more open and rocky peak before heading back. The strong winds at the top were quite cool but very refreshing.




The descent was brutal. My knees are cursing me today and I can't remember how many slips and slides I experienced on the return trip. Overall, it wasn't that great of a hike. I was definitely glad that my kids did not go if for no other reason than the bees that were everywhere. The rash that I got from the vegetation was also a negative. But if nothing else, it was great three-and-a-half hours of exercise.

Link to the map:

View Wellsville Mountains - 2011-08-27 in a larger map

Click on the sideshow to see the albums:



Created by My Tracks on Android.
Total Distance: 12.21 km (7.6 mi)
Total Time: 3:28:42
Moving Time: 2:08:38
Average Speed: 3.51 km/h (2.2 mi/h)
Average Moving Speed: 5.69 km/h (3.5 mi/h)
Max Speed: 30.60 km/h (19.0 mi/h)
Min Elevation: 1635 m (5363 ft)
Max Elevation: 2547 m (8358 ft)
Elevation Gain: 1063 m (3488 ft)
Max Grade: -5 %
Min Grade: -20 %
Recorded: Sat Aug 27 08:20:42 MDT 2011
Activity type: hiking

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Chilly Peak



Another beautiful day for a hike in northern Utah. Charlie and I set out around 8:00 and immediately began to hike at a pretty good clip. We didn't look to switchbacks to make things easy on us. Instead, we took some of the cuts in the trail system along the route (I know, for shame) but we were looking to make great time. My wife and kids were off at church praying for my soul while I was out taking in some of our Creator's greatest works.

The Great Western Trail that passes along the southwest side of Chilly Peak seemed much too easy to follow. Truly experiencing the great outdoors means being adventurous at times - and sometimes dangerously adventurous. Rather than remaining on the dedicated trail, I fearlessly led my ignorant Lab up a steep incline just southeast of Chilly Peak. Although this saved us quite a bit in terms of distance, I think we would have been about even in terms of time had we stayed on the longer and easier trail system. Live and learn.


The climb, although lacking a trail, brought Charlie and I to a couple of beautiful, wildflower covered plateaus that were breathtaking. We followed the ridge line as much as we could until we encountered the welcome sight of the trail. From here on out it was a walk in the park to Chilly Peak.


Turning north into a canyon just west of Chilly Peak provided some amazing views of Ben Lomond Peak. I plan to return when I have more time and will have my family in tow.







Becoming wiser in my still increasing age, I maintained a strict adherence to the rules and followed the trail the entire way down the mountain. This added a significant amount of distance to the overall hike, probably around a mile or a mile and a half, but the time was well spent. The enormous pines in the area were so impressive having seemingly taken over a particular neighborhood in this part of the forest. It served as a reminder to me that it still amazes me how much the terrain of this state can vary in such a short distance. Rocks, wildflowers, forest, tall grasses, and lakes can all be found within such a relatively short hike. Perfect for those of us who suffer from minor cases of ADD.


The rest of the hike down was almost uneventful until I happened to catch a glimpse of Charlie trudging along, limping as he went. Figuring he had an infernal goat head stuck in his paw, I took a close look. Ready to pull out the sticker that I believed I found, I quickly realized his paw pads were in quite literally in tatters. Apparently the rocky portions of the trail did a number on him. I was devastated as he so enjoys getting up to the mountains. We pressed on and gave him a thorough disinfecting, antibiotic, and gauze wrap as soon as we got home.


The toll of a 4.5 mile hike Saturday followed by an intense leg workout at the gym was eventually realized on the descent down the mountain. About half way down it felt as though I had performed approximately 35,000 leg extensions. Apparently we don't automatically acquire some magnificent gift of wisdom at the age of forty. If I had perhaps I would have thought better about the leg workout even though I anticipated to hike at least eight miles the following day. A friend from the gym told me one time that he thought I was a sadist and that I liked the pain. Just as President Bush had looked into the eyes of former President Putin, I think that Dwayne may have likewise seen my soul when he uttered those words.

I met a handful of people on the trail. A couple were really nice and talkative while others were zombies. But overall, the hike itself was moderate and I recommend it to anyone. Hell, press on to Ben Lomond and tell me how you like it.


Map for this hike:

View Chilly Peak - 2011-08-21 in a larger map

Stats:

Created by My Tracks on Android.
Total Distance: 14.86 km (9.2 mi)
Total Time: 3:59:46
Moving Time: 2:50:42
Average Speed: 3.72 km/h (2.3 mi/h)
Average Moving Speed: 5.22 km/h (3.2 mi/h)
Max Speed: 36.06 km/h (22.4 mi/h)
Min Elevation: 1876 m (6155 ft)
Max Elevation: 2545 m (8348 ft)
Elevation Gain: 930 m (3052 ft)
Max Grade: 0 %
Min Grade: 0 %
Recorded: Sun Aug 21 07:43:41 MDT 2011
Activity type: hiking

Link to the albums:
Chilly Peak - 2011-08-21